Monday, December 12, 2016

Queenstown - Journey's End

December 13th - the journey is finished and we're getting packed up to return home today. Here are the final days on the west coast of the South Island. It's rainforest there, so no surprise that it rains. After the last rest day, we awoke to a soggy start and it didn't let up all day.
wet setup for breakfast
...out on the road and it didn't get better.

single lane bridge
another single lane bridge
just after lunch... best view of the afternoon
...but the nicest thing of the day was arriving at lunch where Emily greeted us handing us each a cup of hot coffee. Usually there are no hot drinks at lunch, but bless the crew, they made it happen.

The next day's forecast was better, but none of us expected a beautiful clear day when we got up.
We headed inland along the Haast River, a continual, but mainly gentle ascent at first...


...over more single lane bridges...
...and eventually into steeper (much steeper) and longer (like several kilometers) climbs in the forest with lots of waterfalls from yesterday's rain...
 
Up in these forests we saw New Zealand's smallest bird, the Rifleman, measuring only three inches nose to tail...
...and hundreds of deer in several farms along the way...
A couple of passes and distinct geography changes later we emerged above Lake Hawea...
...and faced several more very steep ascents to get around the lake...
...and then meeting Jim Pierce (who we knew from Bamboo Road) at the top of a particularly steep 1-km hill... he had come over from his home on the east coast to meet the group... there he was with a cold beer... that fuelled us for the last few km into our last campsite of the trip, and a nice setting it was...
The next morning we were all in our nice new TransOceania cycling jerseys for a photo before setting off for the last day...
...which took us up a long and again very steep ascent (you must be getting sick of hearing about steep ascents, but we were reduced to under 6 km/hr for significant stretches, not just us slowpokes, but others too)...
 ...before arriving at lunch at the top of the pass. This pass is the highest sealed road in NZ at an altitude of just over 1000 metres.
 A great view down to Queenstown and Lake Wakatipu...
After lunch it was onto this great descent. The brake pads really got a workout...
 ...and further around the bend we were on these switchbacks...
    ...before again having to climb to get around to town without being on the main highway.
 
The next day we went up on the gondola and could see the road we'd come down...
...and great views of the lake and the town...


Sunday saw us going to Milford Sound. There's a single lane tunnel on that route. New Zealand is home to the Kea which is a large alpine parrot, heavier feathers (and insulation) for the colder climes, camouflaged with greenish top feathers, and they wander around the parking area looking for rubber to chew on... seriously... watch your bike tyres...
We had seen one of these in a wildlife sanctuary and been able to see beneath the wing, where camouflage is not an issue... beautiful red-orange colours...
So on to Milford Sound...




one lonely penguin seen on a rock at the edge of the Sound
...didn't know seals lay on their backs!
a bit of competition between males on the rock
That's the end... thanks for following our adventure... Christmas is less than two weeks away... no snow here but we understand that Canada is doing better in that regard. We wish you a merry Christmas and much health and happiness in the new year.
 
Bye for now... Ursula and Rae




 

Monday, December 5, 2016

The Westland and Glacier Country

Last rest day was December 2 at Westport where we went underground wearing wetsuits and carrying a big inner tube and wandered into a series of caves and eventually coming out floating in the dark on the inner tubes looking at the roof of the cave filled with glow worms - we all enjoyed that - then we floated down the river through some moderate rapids back to where we started.


seven of us ready for the cave
no lighting there except our headlamps
Ursula, Brigitte, Walli, and Juergen ready for the river
Ursula and Brigitte
Ursula, Emily (the TDA excursion leader) Walli, and Francine
Back on the bikes on Saturday with unsettled weather in the morning with a promise of better in the afternoon. In the end, we only had two showers that lasted maybe five minutes each, so didn't get too wet...
morning mist and rainshower
...and by the time we got to the Pancake Rocks, it was dry and a very pleasant day. the pancake rocks are called that because they look like stacks of pancakes. Scientists know that they are sedimentary layers but don't completely understand the mechanics behind them forming the way they are here. The rocks are home to several species of birds.
Pancake Rocks, blow hole in the centre

White-fronted tern - note the chick to the right
Tern bring home breakfast



Spotted Shags
We're now going south-east down NZ's west coast which is the rain forest side of the south island. There's enough relatively flat land at some points along the coast for agriculture and livestock; at other parts it's on roads that wind around the sides of hills, climbing quite steeply for a bit, then descending to cross one of the many many rivers coming out of the mountains. We never reach particularly high altitudes, but the ups and downs ensure that we have to climb a lot most days.
 
slides from recent very heavy rainfalls


Rae had a flat less than ten km from camp in Greymouth on Saturday.
Then into camp for the daily briefing for the following day's ride. A pretty cool evening with lots of enthusiastic riders awaiting the next day which was forecast to be cloudy and showery in the morning possibly improving in the afternoon.
Emily, our leader, explaining tomorrow's route...
...to an enthusiastic bunch of riders.
Sunday morning... SURPRISE... blue sky and these views from the beach we're camped beside. Instead of inclement weather we had sunshine all day.


One of the campsite regulars seems to be this Weka... amusing... a few days ago we were elated to sight one of these along the road thinking we were lucky to see it, and now we find it wandering among us inspecting the bikes and belongings. After all of us riders left the camp that morning, the support crew saw this guy (or girl) grab another little bird that came too close and take it into the bushes where the squawking ended quite quickly... nature...
 

For us, the first 12 km was on a bike trail along the coast...

Later, we were back on the highway crossing this single-lane bridge which carries highway traffic and railway trains going in both directions - there is a 'clip-on' at the side that allows pedestrians and cyclists to cross without impeding (or getting run over) by trains and cars. This, we were told, is the last of the shared road-train bridges left in NZ, at least on major highways.

Next we see why the Weka is endangered. This one made it across the road before getting run over by Ursula but regrettably, we've seen a lot of evidence that the Weka hasn't figured out how fast cars are coming.

Monday was another lovely day, crossing several glacier-fed rivers on our way into Glacier Country, first Franz Josef and then Fox Glacier, the latter for a rest day.



This is Fox Glacier with a footpath to a viewing point for the glacier. Forty years ago, where we were standing to take the picture would have been beneath tons of glacier ice. It has all receded. Where before you could walk onto the glacier, it isn't considered safe and the only way onto the glacier surface is by helicopter.

This morning (Tuesday December 6) was, as per forecast, overcast, but still dry so we went down to Matheson lake where there's a nice cafĂ© for a good breakfast as well as good views of the mountains, including Mount Cook, when it's visible, which unfortunately it wasn't.

Fox Glacier and Mount Tasman are in the mist on the right.
Mount Cook is further right but not visible
Nevertheless a pleasant walk and there were some nice birds around the lake (I'm open to correction on my bird identification talent or lack thereof).

New Zealand Pigeon - almost twice the size of our city pigeons

Silvereye

Chaffinch

Bellbird
Rain started this afternoon and the weather forecast says it will be heavy tomorrow when we're on the bikes to Haast, The rain forecast for tomorrow late morning puts us right in the middle of that yellow and red stuff midway down the west coast.

The following two days may be a bit better than that, but as we see it, anything better than rain from here to Queenstown will be a bonus.